Glossary

Aertex

A loosely woven cotton fabric, which is very lightweight, that is used to make shirts and underwear. It is a trademarked name
 

Absorbant cotton batting

Cotton wadding or batting made of cotton without any natural oils. This is highly absorbent and is used in cleaning purposes in medical field and cosmetic field

​

Algodon cotton

Algodon pais is a variety of native cotton growing in Peru

​

Antique satin 
heavy dull lustrous satin fabric; this fabric is woven with uneven (slubbed) yarns resulting in a textured finish.

armhole
one of the holes for your arms in a shirt, jacket, etc.

 

Armure

A cotton fabric with jacquard or dobby weave giving the look of a raised pattern. Earlier this fabric had a pattern of chain mail/chain armour woven as part of the design

​

asbestos
mineral fiber fabric with many industrial uses. Use of asbestos near humans has been linked to many serious consequences

 

Baft

Cheap coarse cotton fabric

​

Bark Cloth

Slightly textured, Rugged looking 100% cotton fabric ( So named because it resembles the original bark cloth made from the bark of trees), used for unlined jackets and skirts

​

Baronet satin – Very smooth satin found in many bright colors. It is very lustrous. It has Rayon yarn in the weave.bodice

 

Basket weave cotton

This cotton fabric has a checkerboard pattern in its weave. Usually used to make men’s shirts

​

Batiste

A very thin and soft lightweight cotton fabric. Used to make summer clothes and handkerchiefs. It is semi-sheer fabric so it will need lining when used for dressmaking

​

Bedford cotton

A strong ribbed fabric that looks like corduroy. Usually used for bed sheets

​

Bengaline cotton

A woven fabric with criss-cross ribs resembling grossgrain

​

Bipolished cotton

A type of cotton treated by an enzyme that removes the roughness on the surface

​

breast
the top front part of a jacket or coat

breast pocket
a pocket on the front of a shirt or jacket, over your chest

 

Broadcloth

A clothing fabric that is tightly woven in a plain weave with a crosswise rib. Similar to poplin, but finer. Earlier broadcloth used to be made of wool but nowadays it is made of cotton or cotton/polyester blends. It is lustrous and soft and smooth to touch but with a good texture. Best quality broadcloth made of Egyptian or combed pima does'tt wrinkle much and is very durable.

​

Brocade

Cotton brocade has a cotton base with the designs woven with silk or rayon yarns.

​

Broderie Anglaise

This is a cotton fabric with beautiful eyelets all over. Also called eyelet cotton.

​

Brushed cotton

Cotton fabric that is brushed on the surface to remove extra lint and fibers, making it extra soft and smooth. Flannel is a brushed cotton fabric

​

Buckram

This is a cheap, low-textured, loose weave fabric used in hat making, bookbinding and as lining. It is very heavily sized and stiff

​

Butcher Linen

Originally made from linen this is now made in cotton fibers. It is a very durable fabric that can easily be maintained.

​

buttonhole
a small hole in a piece of clothing through which you push a button to fasten it

 

Calico

A plain weave cloth coarser than muslin made from unbleached and not fully processed cotton. Made in India this cotton is one of the oldest cotton made by man. It usually comes with a lot of sizing to maintain stiffness. It can become limp when sizing is washed out.

​

Cambric

A very fine fabric, without any weaving faults. It is made of cotton.

​

Candlewick Fabric

This is a type of muslin cotton fabric used as a base for candlewick embroidery.

​

Canton Flannel

This is an absorbent cotton fabric – which also very warm and strong. It is also heavy when compared to other cotton fabrics.

​

Canton satin 
Soft heavy Satin with a ribbed texture (crepe finish) in the back care label
a label inside a piece of clothing that tells you how you should wash and dry it
 

Canvas

An extremely durable fabric made of cotton or linen. Canvas comes in two types – plain and duck.

​

Challis

A lightweight, woven fabric made of wool, cotton, or rayon, either in a single color or in small prints. Its slightly brushed surface creates a silky finish that can easily be dyed and is usually machine washable.

​

Chambray / Chambric

A fine, lightweight cloth (usually cotton) in a plain weave with colored, lengthwise threads and a white fill.

​

Charmeuse

A soft, lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave. It is a silk, cotton, or man-made fabric with a smooth, semi-lustrous satin finish and a dull matte backing. It is a very drape able material and shiny silk and soft, so very popular to make dresses.

​

Chamois

It is a plain weave cotton fabric that is napped, sheared, and dyed to look like chamois leather.

​

Chamoisette

This is a  fine, firmly knit fabric with a short soft nap.

​

Chartreuse 
lightweight satin which drapes very well; it is very clingy and has an attractive luster on the surface (but dull on the backside)
 

Cheese cloth

This is a very loosely woven gauze-like fabric which is used in the preparation of cheese and for covering food.

​

Chenille

Fabric made with an Incredibly soft, fuzzy cotton yarn with protruding pile; It is popularly used in upholstery or for making pillows, blankets

​

Chino

A durable cotton fabric made of a twill, which has a sheen. It was originally used in England for military uniforms. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.

​

Chintz

A usually glazed printed cotton fabric with bright figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. It also comes in plain colors. It is named after the Indian word “Chint” meaning “broad, gaudily printed fabric”. Used widely in upholstery fabric.

​

collar
the part of a coat, shirt, or dress that goes around your neck
 

Coirmade from fibers taken from the outer covering of coconut (coconut husk) Sisal, Pina (from pineapple leaves), Agave, fiber from banana, Abaca, Bamboo  and other palms

​

Combed cotton

Refers to cotton with the highest thread count with the highest quality. When cotton is “combed,” the shortest, additional fibers of a batch are removed. This process produces high-quality yarns with excellent strength and softness. Combed cotton is finer, softer, stronger and more compact.

​

Cottagora

An extremely soft and environmentally sound material made from a combination of Angora rabbit hair and organic cotton.

​

cotton
This fabric is made from  fibers taken from inside the seed of the cotton plant ( seed hair fibers). It is the most comfortable, absorbing, soft (depending on the make) and the most commonly used textile in the world. It is also inexpensive compared to other natural fabrics
 

Cotton Batiste

A fine lightweight semi-sheer cloth used in heirloom sewing.

​

Cotton Lawn

Cotton Lawn is similar to cotton voile, but crisper.

​

Cotton voile

Lightweight and somewhat sheer fabric, it is perfect for draping.

​

Corduroy

A medium- to heavyweight thick and ribbed fabric (usually cotton), often used for clothing. A distinct pattern of vertical ribs, tufted “cords” is formed by twisted fibers that lie parallel to one another with channels in between the cords. A durable cloth, it is used to make jackets, trousers etc.

Crepe back satin – One side satin and one side crepe so can be used with either side

crew neck
a tight round neck on a sweater

crotch
the part of a piece of clothing that covers this area

crutch
BRITISH a crotch

cuff
the part of a sleeve that fits around your wrist

cuff
AMERICAN the bottom edge of the leg of a pair of pants that is folded up
 

Cuyuscate cotton

Colored cotton that is native to Guatemala; it is naturally brown in color.

​

dart
a narrow pointed fold made in a piece of clothing by sewing so that it has a better shape or fits better

​

Damask

A beautiful patterned cotton fabric made on a jacquard loom. A rich, glossy reversible fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers usually woven with a variety of elaborate patterns that are flat. It is used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc . They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs floral or geometrical.

 

Denim / dungaree / jeans fabric

A sturdy warp faced heavy-weighted rugged coarse durable twill-weave cotton fabric; It is usually of color blue and is used to make work clothes and prominently used to make jeans and casual wear.It does not stretch or drape well.

​

Diaper cloth

A fabric (usually cotton or linen) with a twill dobby or plain weave; very absorbent.

​

Dimity

A sheer, thin, white or printed fabric with lengthwise cords, stripes or checks – in a raised pattern; used for bed covers and curtains.

​

Duchess satin
heavy stiff satin with not much shine. It is used in making bridal wear
 

Domette Flannel

This is a plain weave soft flannel fabric with more nap than on flannelette.

​

Dotted swiss

This is a Plain weave cotton semi sheer crisp fabric with swivel, lappet or flocked (multicolored or single colored) dots all over the surface.

​

Double cloth

This a reversible cloth that is made by binding two different fabrics with yarn.

​

Double knit fabric

A cotton knit fabric with both side the same. 

​

Drill

Medium weight Cotton twill fabric used in men’s and women’s slacks. When dyed a khaki color, drill is also called “khaki”.

​

Duck cloth

A plain woven cotton fabric medium-weight cloth (usually cotton) that is soft, breathable and durable. Tightly woven and retains color beautifully.It is commonly called canvas. It is a sturdy utility cloth used in home décor projects.

​

Egyptian cotton

Egyptian cotton is a finely woven, high-quality cotton from Egypt. This high grade of cotton boasts the longest and strongest fibers.It is known for its softness.

​

elbow
the part of a sleeve that covers your elbow
 

English net

Fabric made of threads knotted to form a mesh. English Net is usually heavier than nylon net. Usually made from cotton or polyester, it is much softer and used as a base on which to applique motifs.

​

facing
cloth fastened to the inside edges of a piece of clothing to make it stronger

facings
the collar or cuffs of a jacket or coat when they are made in a different cloth or color from the rest

finger
the part of a piece of clothing that covers one of your fingers
 

Flannel

A soft medium weight cotton fabric with a napped finish. The nap may be present on one side or both sides. It is popular in making baby clothes and blankets.

​

Flanellette

A heavy soft cotton fabric imitating flannel with a napped surface. It has a nap only on one side. The fabric is used to make clothes and accessories for cold climate as it is warmth giving.

​

flies
BRITISH the fly on a pair of pants

​

fly
the opening at the front of a pair of pants that is fastened with buttons or a zipper. The British word is flies

foot
the part of a piece of clothing that covers your foot

fringe
a row of fibers or thin pieces of cloth that hangs down from a piece of cloth or clothing
 

French terry

This is a looped cotton fabric which is very absorbent. The wrong side of this fabric will be flat and is popular in making sportswear.

​

Fustian

A term given to the class of cotton fabrics which includes corduroys, moleskins, constitution cords, cords, heavy Bedford cords, etc., used for clothing purposes.fabric with a slight nap.

​

Gabardine

A firm, tough tightly woven fabric with a subtle, diagonal line of twill and sometimes a high sheen. Used to make suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, windbreakers, and other garments; traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend.

​

Gauze

A sheer lightweight cotton fabric with a very loose weave. Usually found as a bandage dressing but also used to make clothes.

​

Gingham

A middle-weight, plain woven cotton fabric typically striped or checked in white and a bold color or plaid using two or more colors with a plain weave made of cotton or cotton-blend yarn. It derives from Malay word gingang which means striped. The pattern of colored squares in a gingham cloth is very attractive.

​

grommet
a metal or plastic ring that surrounds a hole in cloth to prevent it from tearing

gusset
a small extra piece of cloth sewn into a piece of clothing, especially underwear, to make it stronger or more comfortable

Hammered satin
textured satin

heel
the part of a sock, etc. that goes over the back of your foot. The other end is called the toe.

hem
the bottom edge of something such as a dress or curtain that is folded and sewn in place

hemline
the bottom edge of a dress or skirt which has been turned up and sewn in place

hemline
the length of skirts and dresses as this changes according to fashion

hip pocket
a pocket near your hip in a pair of pants or a skirt
 

Homespun

This is a rugged rough textured fabric made with irregular slightly twisted uneven yarns. It used to be hand loomed with undyed yarn.

​

hood
a piece of colored cloth worn over the shoulders as part of some academic gowns
 

Hopsacking

A very durable rough textured fabric made of coarse yarn. It is quite bulky and is used to make coats and home furnishing.

​

inseam
AMERICAN the length of your leg measured on the inside from the top to the foot

inside leg
BRITISH your inseam
 

Irish poplin

Fine linen or cotton shirting also made in Ireland. It was originally a fabric constructed with silk warp and wool filling in plain weave with fine rib.

​

Ixcaco cotton

Naturally Beige colored cotton native to Guatemala

​

Jaconet

A fine, sheer plain-weave cotton fabric.

​

Jersey (Cotton)

A knit fabric that is made of cotton fibers that can look very much like woven fabric. Soft and breathable, with extra “give” or stretch for comfort. On the right side, it has lengthwise ribs (wales) and on the wrongside, it has crosswise ribs (courses) It is a light to medium weight fabric which is very popular in making dresses, and tops.

​

Khakhi

Fabric made of cotton ( can be of linen, wool, worsted, or man made fibers and blends also); The name means earth color and is derived from Indian word; this fabric is a Tan or dusty colored warp face twill.

​

knee
the part of a pants leg that covers your knee
 

Kuyuchi cotton

Naturally Brown colored wild cotton found in Mexico; it is used in hand weaving cotton textiles

​

ladder
BRITISH a long thin hole in stockings or pantyhose. The American word is run.

lapel
one of the two parts at the front of a coat or jacket that are folded back on each side below the collar
 

Lawn

A finely-woven, semi-crisp fabric woven in cotton (or linen). It is very lightweight, breathable and has a smooth texture. It is primarily used in heirloom dresses, blouses, collars, and cuffs. It also makes great underlining.

​

leg
the part of a piece of clothing that covers one of your legs

linen
made from a bast fiber taken from the stem of the flax plant. The elegance of linen is unparalleled in the world. And it is also the world’s oldest ‘known’ woven fabric
 

Liquid cotton

A luxurious cotton jersey designed with an ultra-smooth and slinky finish.

​

lolita
is a subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by clothing and styles from Victorian & Rococo period
 

Madras cotton

A lightweight, breathable cotton with a typical patterned texture, often in brightly colored plaid patterns, used primarily for warm-weather clothing.

​

Mescaline 
lightweight satin

​

Moire

A corded fabric (usually silk, but maybe cotton, wool or rayon) having a wavy, watermarked pattern on the surface.

 

Moleskin

A heavy cotton fustian cloth with a great number of picks raised before dyeing, resulting in a brushed surface. Feels almost like felt. Used for workmen’s clothing where very hard wear is required. It is used to make sportswear.

​

Monk’s cloth

A heavy and rough cotton fabric used in dressmaking to make jackets and coats and for home furnishing and for embroidery work.

​

Mull

A plain soft fine sheer fabric of cotton, silk, or rayon. The cloth is bleached and soft finished.

​

Muslin

A medium-weight, woven fabric of cotton or cotton/polyester blends of plain weave. Used in a wide variety of sheers and sheeting. It is bleached and un-dyed. It is very economical and comes in a good range of weights and fineness. 

​

Nankeen

A kind of pale yellowish cotton cloth.

​

Nainsook

Fine, soft and lightweight cotton fabric without any body, in soft colors.

​

neck
the part of a piece of clothing that touches or lies just below your neck

Nylon
a thermoplastic material made from petrochemicals. it is the fabric that makes up an umbrella, lining inside my bag, bristles in a toothbrush, spatula, the invisible thread  use to sew

neckline
the shape of a piece of clothing around your neck
 

Organdie/ Organdy

A fine thin, light, and transparent cotton fabric with a stiff, crisp finish. It is the sheerest finest cotton cloth.

​

Oxford cloth

A soft, thick and durable, cotton or synthetic blend with a plain or basket weave that boasts a silk-like, lustrous finish. It is usually used to make shirts; It is characterized with narrow stripes and can be woven in plain or basket weave.

​

Panne satin
stiff satin which is very glossy

panel
a piece of material that forms part of a piece of clothing

patch
a piece of cloth that you sew over a hole in clothes, or over a part where holes might form

patch
a small piece of cloth with a design on it that you sew onto clothes for decoration

patch pocket
a square pocket that is sewn onto a piece of clothing
 

Percale

A closely woven plain-weave fabric that’s smooth, firm, medium weight and fine. Usually made of cotton from a minimum of 180 threads per square inch.

​

Pima cotton

One of the best grades of cotton in the world with long, luxurious fibers.This luxurious high-quality long-staple cotton resists pilling.

​

Pinpoint

A type of weave with two-over, one-under stitching. More durable than most weaves but less soft than sateen. This soft and lustrous oxford cotton has an ultra-fine basket weave.

​

Pique Cotton (Marcella)

A medium weight cotton fabric with a special textured diamond patterned weave forming raised parallel cords.

​

Plisse

This is a cotton fabric that looks like seersucker – with a crinkled surface. The crepe-like surface is made by treating the fabric with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the fabric either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect.

​

pocket
a small bag that forms part of a piece of clothing and is used for holding small objects
 

Polycotton

A blend of polyester and cotton.The blending of fabric fibers makes this fabric wrinkle-resistant and colorfast. This fabric is used to make a variety of garments including no crease shirts.

​

Poplin

A tightly woven plain-weave fabric (usually a light weight cotton) characterized by a corded surface. ( fine horizontal ribs) A durable fabric, poplin is usually made of cotton but can also be silk, wool or synthetic blends. It does not wrinkle much and is popular for making shirts, dresses.

​

Quilting cotton

This refers to a medium weight 100% cotton. It is also known as craft cotton. Mostly they are printed. They can be used to sew dresses, tops and skirts other than quilts.

​

Ringspun fabric

A soft durable fiber (usually cotton) spun prior to knitting, so it’s finer, softer and more durable than ordinary cotton. The twisting prior to weaving makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.

​

run
AMERICAN a long thin hole in stockings or pantyhose
 

Sateen

Lustrous and smooth cotton fabric with a nice sheen. It is used for making dresses, nightwear.

​

scoop neck
a round low neck on a piece of clothing

seat
the part of a piece of clothing that covers your bottom
 

Seersucker

A woven, light- to medium-weight fabric with a permanently puckered appearance (Crepe-stripe effect) made of cotton or rayon. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. It is a popular fabric for dressmaking and bedding.

​

shirtfront
the front part of a shirt
 

Shirting cotton

Lightweight crisp cotton fabric with woven in stripes or checks. This is mostly used to make men’s shirts.

​

shirtsleeves
the sleeves of a shirt

shirttail
the bottom part of a shirt worn inside your trousers, especially the longer part at the back

shoulder
the part of a shirt, jacket, or other piece of clothing that covers your shoulder

shoulder pad
a thick soft piece of material inside the shoulders of a piece of clothing such as a jacket

shoulder strap
a thin piece of cloth or other material that goes over the shoulder on clothes such as dresses

side split
a cut in the side of a piece of clothing such as a skirt, used mainly for decoration
 

Silesie

A sturdy twill-weave smooth finished cotton fabric; used for pockets and linings

​

silk
made from fibers taken from the insect silk worm skirt
 

Silk cotton blend

This blend minimizes many faults of cotton. This is used to make blouses and dresses.

​

sleeve
the part of a piece of clothing that covers your arm

Slipper satin 

Satin with a cotton back

stay
a short piece of bone, wire, or plastic used inside a corset or shirt collar to keep it stiff

stirrup
a band of cloth that goes under your foot on some pants

strap
a narrow piece of material that holds a piece of clothing on your body

tab
AMERICAN a label attached to clothing or other material and that gives information about it

tail
the bottom part of your shirt that you put inside your pants
 

Terrycloth

An absorbent knit fabric usually in cotton, that has a plush pile of loops on one side. This fabric is used to make towels, bathing robes etc.

​

textile
flexible material made by creating an interlocking network of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibers (from either natural or synthetic sources) into long and twisted lengths

 

Ticking

This is a very heavy cotton fabric used in covering bedding; Usually used in making upholstery and other home decor.

​

toe
the part of a shoe or sock that covers your toes

train
a long part at the back of a dress, especially a wedding dress, that spreads over the ground

tuck
a fold in clothing that you sew for decoration or to make the clothing tighter

turn-up
BRITISH a cuff

turtleneck
AMERICAN a high neck that folds over on a sweater
 

Velour

A medium-weight, plush knit fabric, usually made of cotton, with qualities similar to velvet. It’s soft and plush with a close, dense pile having a sheen. It is used in clothing ( sportswear, evening wear)and upholstery.

​

Velveteen

A woven, cotton fabric with a velvet-like pile.

​

Velveteen plush

A cotton velveteen, but the weft has longer floats, which when cut give a longer pile. The pile is also firmly bound.

​

vent
a straight cut at the bottom of a jacket, dress, etc. that allows you to move more easily

V-neck
an opening for the neck in a piece of clothing, in the shape of a “V”
 

Voile

A soft, fine, sheer fabric with a slightly crisp feel. Usually made from plain woven cotton, but can also be made from acetate, silk or rayon. It is lightweight see through and has a good drape. It is used to make summer clothes and curtains.

​

waist
the part of a piece of clothing that covers the middle part of your body

waistband
a piece of cloth on a pair of pants or a skirt that goes around your waist

waistline
the place where the upper and lower pieces of clothing meet, usually near the waist
 

Whipcord

This is a rugged cotton fabric with a diagonally ribbed surface.This medium to heavy weight fabric is used to make coats, suits and sportswear.

​

wing collar
a stiff collar on a formal shirt, with the corners folded over at the front

wool
made from animal coats taken from animals like Sheep, goats, rabbits, alpacas, llama, camel hair, cashmere, mohair. Sheep wool is the most commonly used and there are a number of breeds of sheep and they produce different qualities of wool